An introductory guide to finding the perfect set of pearls. By Nicole Keen
Pearls are undeniably elegant, so it’s understandable that they have become a traditional part of weddings—whether worn as a classic necklace, or used to add detail to a gown. However, Brian Roberts, President of Nova Scotia based company Select Pearls (selectpearls.com), suggests that there is another reason for their popularity. “Pearls have long been associated with the elite in history. Due to their rarity, pearls were treasured and cherished.” Throughout history, many queens, including Elizabeth II, have worn pearls to mark important occasions like coronation ceremonies, notes Roberts. Fortunately, in the era of cultured pearls, you don’t have to raid the royal coffers to afford a strand of your own! Today, pearls are accessible on any budget; and they make a fabulous accent to your bridal ensemble. In order to make an informed purchase, though, it’s helpful to be aware of the following types of pearls, styles of necklaces and marks of quality.
Types of Pearls:
Freshwater: These pearls are more common, and therefore less valuable, than their saltwater counterparts. They are also less lustrous. Produced in lakes and rivers by pearl mussels, freshwater pearls are most prevalent in white, but are also available in a range of colours.
Saltwater: Of all pearls, the saltwater variety is the most coveted. They are found in seas and oceans, and are produced by oysters. Saltwater pearls are available in three different varieties: Akoya, Black Tahitian and South Sea.
Akoya pearls are extremely popular due to their high shine and perfectly round shape. They are available in various colours ranging from silvery white to gold or blue/grey. According to Roberts, Akoya pearls are one of their best-selling items because of their high quality. These pieces are “heirloom items that can be passed down,” stresses Roberts.
Black Tahitian pearls are highly desirable due to their great beauty and unusual colour. Ranging from black to grey, silver or even green, Black Tahitians make a great addition to any wardrobe.
South Sea pearls are renowned for their large size. They are available in colours such as white, silver and gold, and make a bold statement when paired with an ivory or champagne coloured gown.
Pearls can be further divided into Natural, Cultured and Imitation varieties.
Natural pearls are extremely rare, especially today. They are formed by chance when an irritant becomes lodged in the mussel or oyster. They occur without any human interference.
Unlike natural pearls, cultured varieties are created by pearl farmers who insert the irritant deliberately. Human influence has resulted in closer control of pearl production, creating pearls with a more uniform appearance.
Imitation pearls are just that—faux versions that approximate the real deal using glass, plastic or mother-of-pearl. They are a great choice for your flower girl; she can match the rest of the bridal party, but at a lower cost (and you don’t have to worry about her losing them!).
Styles of Necklaces:
You’ve probably realized that strings of pearls are available in different lengths, but did you know that each length has a different name? The six types of strands are as follows:
Collar: Sits at the throat.
Choker: Sits at the base of the neck, against the collarbone.
Princess: Falls just below the collarbone.
Matinee: Falls just above the breasts.
Opera: Hovers at the breastbone.
Rope: Anything longer than opera length.
We recommend choosing a strand of pearls based on your dress. For instance, if you are wearing a strapless gown with an ornate bodice, opt for a necklace that is close to the neck, such as a collar or a choker. On the other hand, a silky charmeuse fishtail number would look terrific with a flapper-like rope of pearls.
Marks of Quality:
Pearls, unlike diamonds, do not have a “globally accepted grading scale,” says Roberts. Therefore, it pays to stick with a retailer that follows strict guidelines. Select Pearls, for example, adheres to the standards set forth by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). According to Roberts, pearls are selected and priced based on the following attributes:
Nacre: This refers to the pearl’s outer layer or coating. The nacre’s thickness determines longevity. Pearls with thinner nacre are more likely to wear down over time.
Lustre: This refers to the pearl’s shine. In general, the shinier, the better.
Colour: Obviously, some colours are rarer than others, resulting in a higher price point.
Shape: Perfectly round pearls are more valuable than irregular shapes.
Matching: How pearls line up on a strand and match each other also determines their value.