ASCOT
A double-knot tie, with wide ends, that folds over the chest and is fastened with a stickpin. Usually worn with a winged-collar tuxedo shirt (see “Winged-collar Shirt,” below) to accessorize a morning suit.
BOUTONNIÈRE
A small floral arrangement, consisting of just one or two blossoms and a few sprigs of greenery, pinned to the left lapel at the buttonhole.
BOW TIE
The most familiar element of a formal ensemble, the bow tie is most often obtained pre-tied with a matching length that encircles the neck. The colour of the groomsmen’s bow ties and cummerbunds may be coordinated to match the bridesmaids’ dresses.
CUMMERBUND
A buckled sash fastened about the waist (always with the pleats facing up) to cover the trouser waistband.
DINNER JACKET
The term is often used interchangeably with “tuxedo jacket” to denote a formal jacket sporting either a notched or shawl collar. Some purists prefer, however, to call only the white or ivory tuxedo jacket a true “dinner” jacket.
DIRECTOR’S SUIT
Worn only for a daytime wedding ceremony and reception. This ensemble features a grey suit jacket that resembles a business suit jacket. It is worn with a turned-down-collar shirt (see below), a four-in-hand tie (see below), a grey vest and grey/black striped trousers.
FOUR-IN-HAND TIE
Similar to a business tie, but made of a more formal fabric and used to accessorize a director’s or a regular suit.
FULL DRESS
Also known as “tails,” full dress is the ultimate in formality and worn only after 6 p.m. The ensemble consists of a winged-collar tuxedo shirt, ascot or bow tie, vest, tuxedo trousers and tailcoat. The full-dress ensemble can be acquired in black, midnight blue or grey, with a white shirt and matching accessories, or all-white. (See “White Tie.”)
MANDARIN-COLLAR SHIRT
A formal shirt that features a short band collar, only 2.5 centimetres high, and specifically designed to be worn without a tie. Tie-less formalwear ensembles easily make the scene at both informal and formal weddings.
MORNING SUIT
This suit is so named because it’s only appropriate to wear it at ceremonies and receptions held before 6 p.m. The morning suit is the daytime equivalent of full dress. The ensemble consists of a cutaway jacket (a mid-thigh-length coat with single-button closure that is cut at an angle in front, from button to side seam, to expose the trousers), winged-collar shirt, striped ascot, grey vest (see “vest,” below) and grey/black striped trousers.
STAND-UP-COLLAR SHIRT
Another formal shirt look for the tie-less trend. This collar is also made of a band of fabric, though it is slightly higher than a mandarin collar and cut in a notch at the front closure. This shirt can be worn for an informal wedding.
STUDS
They look like tiny cufflinks and replace buttons on a formal tuxedo shirt.
TURNED-DOWN-COLLAR SHIRT
A formal shirt with a collar like a business shirt, accessorized with a bow tie. This style can be worn in a tuxedo ensemble; it is less formal than a winged-collar shirt.
TUXEDO
The suit that set James Bond apart from all the other spies, the tuxedo comes in a range of styles to suit every taste. The single- or double-breasted jacket, with shawl or notched lapels, is usually tailored in silk, wool, mohair or a blend; in black, grey, white or ivory. No matter which style, fabric or colour is chosen, the tuxedo is always appropriate for formal weddings taking place after 6 p.m. If it’s good enough for 007...
VEST
Available in either single- or double-breasted styles, the vest is an optional accessory that can be worn with most tuxedo ensembles. Full-dress and white-tie ensembles, and morning and director’s suits, require vests of a special design.
WHITE TIE
A variation on full dress that is worn only to the most formal evening weddings, white tie consists of a black tailcoat and black tuxedo trousers with a white bow tie (of piqué rather than satin), a winged-collar tuxedo shirt and a white vest.
WINGED-COLLAR SHIRT
A traditional tuxedo shirt featuring a stand-up collar with ends folded over to create “wings,” usually accessorized with a bow tie, sometimes with an ascot.
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